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Contracting for Clothing and Textiles and Views the Supplier Base as 
Uncertain' which was released on February 28, 2003.

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Report to the Chairman and Ranking Minority Member, Committee on Armed 
Services, House of Representatives:

United States General Accounting Office:
GAO:

February 2003:

Contract Management:

DLA Properly Implemented Best Value Contracting for Clothing and Textiles and Views the Supplier Base as Uncertain:

GAO-03-440:

Highlights:

Highlights of GAO-03-440, a report to the Chairman and Ranking 
Minority Member, Committee on Armed Services, House of Representatives.

Why GAO Did This Study:

The Defense Logistics Agency (DLA) supplies the nation’s military 
services and certain civilian agencies with critical resources needed 
to accomplish their worldwide missions. During fiscal year 2001, DLA 
contracts totaled $14.8 billion—$1.2 billion of which was for clothing 
and textiles. The House Committee on Armed Services directed GAO to 
determine whether DLA is properly implementing applicable statutory 
and regulatory guidance for “best value” purchases—those that in the 
federal government’s view provide the greatest overall benefits, not 
just the lowest price. GAO was also asked to obtain DLA officials’ 
views on the domestic supplier base for key clothing and textile items.

What GAO Found:

Based on a random sample of clothing and textile procurements conducted 
in fiscal year 2001 by DLA’s Defense Supply Center Philadelphia (DSCP), 
GAO estimates that DSCP generally complied with statutory and 
regulatory requirements for best value contracting. For example, all of the procurements in GAO’s sample considered past performance as an 
evaluation factor in the source selection process. While GAO noted 
some discrepancies in several of these procurements, mitigating 
circumstances lessened the impact of the discrepancies in most cases. 
DSCP has employed several techniques to promote compliance with best 
value contracting procedures. For example, in 1996, DSCP published 
Guiding Principles for Best Value Source Selection, a handbook that 
outlines the functions and responsibilities of key personnel in the 
best value source selection process, as well as various approaches to 
source selection. According to DLA officials at DSCP, the ability of 
the domestic clothing and textile supplier base to meet future military 
requirements is uncertain. The officials said that, at present, DLA’s 
domestic supplier base for clothing and textiles is more robust than 
ever, as numerous domestic suppliers who did not traditionally do 
business with DSCP are now competing for its contracts. However, they 
characterized this increased competition as the “last gasp of a dying 
industry.” Domestic clothing and textile suppliers are competing for 
DSCP’s business as the industry copes with a decline in employment and 
production and as the supplier base increasingly moves overseas. DSCP 
officials fear that as the clothing and textile industry faces 
increased imports, second- and third-tier suppliers that provide input 
to domestic producers of end items may go out of business, thus eroding 
the domestic supplier base for these items. They stated, however, that 
the “Berry Amendment,” which requires DOD to purchase certain items 
such as food, clothing, and textiles from domestic sources, is helping 
to maintain the domestic supplier base at present.

What GAO Recommends:

GAO recommends that the Secretary of Defense require the DLA Director 
to monitor the health of the clothing and textile supplier base and, 
if warranted, keep the Congress informed on the implications for future 
defense clothing and textile procurements. One means of informing the 
Congress may be through the Department of Defense’s (DOD) Annual 
Industrial Capabilities Report. In commenting on a draft of this 
report, DOD concurred with the recommendation.

To view the full report, including the scope and methodology, click on the link above. For more information, contact David Cooper at (202) 512-4841 or cooperd@gao.gov.

Contents:

Letter:

Results in Brief:

Background:

DSCP Generally Followed Best Value Guidance and Has Taken Actions to 

Promote Compliance:

DLA Views Clothing and Textile Supplier Base as Uncertain:

Recommendation for Executive Action:

Agency Comments and Our Evaluation:

Appendix I: Scope and Methodology:

Appendix II: Sample of Clothing and Textile Procurements:

Appendix III: Comments from the Department of Defense:

Appendix IV: GAO Contact and Staff Acknowledgments:

Table:

Table 1: Procurements in Our Sample:

Abbreviations:

DLA: Defense Logistics Agency:

DOD: Department of Defense:

DSCP: Defense Supply Center Philadelphia:

FAR: Federal Acquisition Regulation:

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United States General Accounting Office:
Washington, DC 20548:

February 28, 2003:

The Honorable Duncan Hunter:
Chairman:
The Honorable Ike Skelton:
Ranking Minority Member:
Committee on Armed Services:
House of Representatives:

The Defense Logistics Agency (DLA) supplies the nation’s military 
services and certain civilian agencies with critical resources needed 
to accomplish their worldwide missions. During fiscal year 2001, DLA 
contracts totaled $14.8 billion--$1.2 billion of which was for clothing 
and textiles. In a report on the Bob Stump National Defense 
Authorization Act for Fiscal Year 2003, the House Committee on Armed 
Services directed us to determine whether DLA is properly implementing 
applicable statutory and regulatory guidance for “best value” purchases 
of clothing and textile items.[Footnote 1] Best value procurements are 
those that in the federal government’s view provide the greatest 
overall benefits, not just the lowest price. In addition, in subsequent 
discussions with Committee staff, we were asked to obtain DLA’s views 
on the domestic supplier base for key clothing and textile items.

To conduct our work, we evaluated DLA’s implementation of statutory and 
regulatory guidance for best value purchases of clothing and textiles 
in fiscal year 2001 with an emphasis on past performance--a key element 
of best value procurements--as an evaluation factor, as agreed to by 
the Committee. We took a random sample of 15 of the 142 clothing and 
textile procurements, each exceeding $100,000, conducted by DLA’s 
Defense Supply Center Philadelphia (DSCP) in fiscal year 2001. Based on 
this sample, we were able to make projections about how well DSCP 
complied with best value guidance for its fiscal year 2001 clothing and 
textile procurements. Twelve of the procurements in our sample used a 
tradeoff process to make the award decision, considering factors in 
addition to price and technical acceptability. The remaining three 
procurements were awarded based on price and technical acceptability 
alone. We also solicited DLA’s views on the domestic supplier base for 
clothing and textiles. Additional information on our scope and 
methodology appears in appendix I. Appendix II lists the procurements 
included in our sample.

Results in Brief:

Based on our random sample, we estimate that the clothing and textile 
procurements conducted in fiscal year 2001 by the Defense Supply 
Center Philadelphia generally complied with statutory and regulatory 
requirements for best value contracting. For example, all of the 
procurements in our sample considered past performance as an evaluation 
factor in the source selection process. We noted some discrepancies in 
several of the procurements, but, in most cases, these procurements had 
mitigating circumstances that lessened the impact of the discrepancies. 
For example, in about half of the cases using a tradeoff source 
selection process, the solicitation did not provide for a “neutral” 
rating of prospective suppliers without relevant past performance. In 
some of these cases, however, when the suppliers’ proposals were 
evaluated, a neutral rating was provided for each proposal. In the 
remaining cases, a neutral rating was not an issue in evaluating past 
performance because either the offerors had some type of past 
performance or they were rated unacceptable because they did not 
provide other required information. The Defense Supply Center 
Philadelphia has employed several techniques to promote compliance with 
best value contracting procedures. For example, in 1996, the center 
published Guiding Principles for Best Value Source Selection, known as 
the “Best Value Handbook,” which outlines the functions and 
responsibilities of key personnel in the best value source selection 
process, as well as various approaches to source selection.

According to Defense Supply Center Philadelphia officials, the ability 
of the domestic clothing and textile supplier base to meet future 
military requirements is uncertain. The officials said that, at 
present, the Defense Logistics Agency’s domestic supplier base for 
clothing and textiles is more robust than ever, as numerous contractors 
who did not traditionally do business with the Defense Supply Center 
Philadelphia are now competing for its contracts. However, they stated 
that this increase in competition among domestic suppliers is the “last 
gasp of a dying industry.” Domestic clothing and textile suppliers are 
competing for the center’s business as the industry copes with a 
decline in employment and production and as the supplier base 
increasingly moves overseas. Defense Supply Center Philadelphia 
officials fear that as the clothing and textile industry faces 
increased imports, second-and third-tier suppliers that provide input 
to domestic producers of end items may go out of business, thus eroding 
the supplier base for these items. They stated that the “Berry 
Amendment,”[Footnote 2] which requires the Department of Defense (DOD) 
to purchase certain items such as food, clothing, and textiles from 
domestic sources, is helping to maintain the domestic supplier base at 
present.

We are recommending that the Defense Logistics Agency monitor the 
health of the clothing and textile industrial base and, if warranted, 
keep the Congress informed on the implications for future defense 
clothing and textile procurements. In commenting on a draft of this 
report, DOD concurred with the recommendation. DOD stated that the 
Defense Logistics Agency will include the health of the clothing and 
textile industrial base as a topic in the next DOD Annual Industrial 
Capabilities Report, which is due March 1, 2004.

Background:

DLA has three defense supply centers located in Philadelphia, 
Pennsylvania; Richmond, Virginia; and Columbus, Ohio. DSCP is the only 
center responsible for clothing and textiles, medical, subsistence, and 
general/industrial items.

According to the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR) Part 15, 
Contracting by Negotiation, an agency can obtain best value in 
negotiated procurements by using any one or a combination of source 
selection processes. In different types of procurements, the relative 
importance of cost or price may vary. For example, in procurements 
where the requirement is clearly defined and the risk of unsuccessful 
contract performance is minimal, cost or price may play a dominant role 
in source selection, such as in the lowest price/technically acceptable 
source selection process. In procurements where the requirement is not 
easily defined or the risk of unsuccessful contract performance is 
relatively high, technical capability and other factors such as past 
performance considerations may play a dominant role. In those 
procurements, it may be in the government’s best interest to consider 
award to other than the lowest priced or highest technically rated 
supplier and to evaluate the relative importance of other factors, 
including past performance,[Footnote 3] in a “tradeoff” process.

The FAR requires that past performance be evaluated in all source 
selections for negotiated competitive acquisitions expected to exceed 
$100,000, unless the contracting officer documents the reason past 
performance is not an appropriate evaluation factor.[Footnote 4] While 
DOD obtained a FAR deviation in 1999 that raised the threshold for 
requiring evaluation of past performance in procurements to those 
expected to exceed $5 million, DSCP’s “Best Value Handbook” requires 
past performance to be included as an evaluation factor for all 
negotiated competitive acquisitions exceeding $100,000.

DSCP Generally Followed Best Value Guidance and Has Taken Actions to 
Promote Compliance:

Based on our random sample, we estimate that procurements conducted by 
DSCP in fiscal year 2001 generally complied with best value statutes 
and regulations with an emphasis on past performance, as implemented in 
major provisions of the FAR[Footnote 5] as well as DLA’s implementing 
acquisition directive. These criteria pertain to four functional areas 
of the contracting process: acquisition planning, solicitation content, 
proposal evaluation, and source selection decision documentation. DSCP 
has been proactive in taking steps to encourage contracting officers to 
comply with best value guidance.

DSCP Generally Followed Best Value Statutory and Regulatory Guidance:
Of the 15 procurements in our sample, 12 were based on a tradeoff 
source selection process that considered factors other than price and 
technical acceptability, while 3 were based on the lowest price/
technically acceptable source selection process. We found that the 15 
procurements adequately addressed past performance based on FAR and DLA 
criteria. For each procurement based on a tradeoff process, past 
performance was the first or second evaluation factor in order of 
importance. For procurements based on the lowest price, the contracting 
officers considered past performance in general terms as part of the 
determination of the contractors’ eligibility for award.

All 15 of the procurements in our sample were required to have written 
acquisition plans under DLA’s acquisition directive implementing the 
FAR.[Footnote 6] Thirteen procurements had written acquisition plans, 
while 2 procurements awarded using simplified acquisition procedures 
under a test program for acquisitions of certain commercial items did 
not.[Footnote 7] A DSCP policy memorandum, dated August 21, 2002, 
reminded buyers and contracting officers of the need to prepare written 
acquisition plans for contract actions expected to exceed the 
simplified acquisition threshold, as the procurements here did. 
However, this memorandum was issued after the procurements included in 
our review had been completed.

The 12 procurements that were based on a tradeoff source selection 
process were subject to further requirements pertaining to solicitation 
content, proposal evaluations, and source selection 
decisions.[Footnote 8] Despite overall compliance with major regulatory 
provisions of the FAR, we found some cases where specific requirements 
were not met. However, mitigating circumstances lessened the effect of 
the lack of compliance. The results of our evaluation in each 
functional area are presented on the following pages.

Solicitation Content Criteria:

[See PDF for Image]

[End of Figure]

Source: FAR Part 15, Contracting by Negotiation.

The 12 procurements in our sample that were based on a tradeoff source 
selection process generally complied with the solicitation content 
criteria. Five solicitations, however, did not authorize prospective 
suppliers to provide information on problems encountered on prior 
contracts and corrective actions taken. Nevertheless, in these five 
solicitations, some suppliers identified problems and corrective 
actions taken, while others did not report any problems on their prior 
contracts. DSCP officials noted that offerors generally submit this 
information with their proposals even when it is not specifically 
authorized in the solicitation.

In addition, the solicitations for 7 of the 12 procurements that were 
based on a tradeoff process did not describe DLA’s approach for 
evaluating past performance of offerors with no relevant past 
performance history. The solicitations should have provided that a 
“neutral” rating be assigned to such offerors.[Footnote 9] The effect 
of not describing a neutral rating in the solicitation was mitigated in 
most of these cases, however. In two cases, DSCP officials did apply 
neutral ratings when evaluating the proposals. In four cases, neutral 
ratings generally were not an issue in the evaluation of past 
performance, because nearly all offerors provided relevant past 
performance information in their proposals. In one case, where 
simplified acquisition procedures were used based on a tradeoff 
analysis, the contracting officer assigned unacceptable ratings to the 
proposals with no past performance history because they did not provide 
other information required by the solicitation.

On March 1, 2002, DSCP implemented a new proposal rating system to be 
used in evaluating clothing and textile best value acquisitions. It 
includes notice to offerors that a neutral rating will be assigned to 
an offeror with no relevant past performance. DSCP officials expect 
that all future solicitations will properly cite the neutral rating 
approach for offerors lacking relevant past performance history.

Proposal Evaluation Criteria: 

[See PDF for Image]

[End of Figure]

Source: FAR Part 15.

The 12 procurements that were based on a tradeoff source selection 
process generally complied with FAR requirements on proposal 
evaluations. For one of the procurements, however, DSCP did not 
evaluate and assess past performance on all of the factors and 
subfactors found in the solicitation. For that procurement, while the 
solicitation listed customer satisfaction as a subfactor, this 
subfactor was not considered when the proposals were evaluated. In 
addition, a commercial item procurement, conducted under the FAR 
simplified acquisition test program, did not evaluate past performance 
as discussed in the solicitation. While the solicitation stated that 
performance on prior contracts in subcontracting and assisting small 
businesses would be evaluated as a part of past performance, the 
evaluation of proposals did not consider these factors. Because these 
instances involved lower evaluation subfactors in the overall 
evaluation scheme, it is unclear whether the evaluation of these 
factors would have ultimately affected the source selection decisions.

Source Selection Decision Criteria: 

[See PDF for Image]

[End of Figure]

Source: FAR Part 15.

The 12 procurements that were based on a tradeoff source selection 
process complied with the FAR in documenting the source selection 
decision. For example, a comparative analysis was made of the potential 
suppliers, as appropriate. DSCP has taken further steps to document 
the basis of source selection decisions by conducting training for its 
contracting personnel on the need to thoroughly document all 
factors considered in making final awards in the source selection 
decision document.

DSCP Has Employed Techniques to Promote Compliance:

A recent DLA review of DSCP procurements found that the center is doing 
a good job of documenting best value tradeoff decisions in the files. 
DSCP has employed several techniques to promote compliance with best 
value contracting procedures. It has provided specific guidance on best 
value contracting, and a contract support group provides advice and 
review as procurements are planned and executed.

First, to provide its contracting personnel with detailed procedures 
for competitive negotiated procurements, DSCP developed and published 
in 1996 its own Guiding Principles for Best Value Source Selection, 
known as the “Best Value Handbook.” The handbook outlines the functions 
and responsibilities of key personnel in the best value source 
selection process as well as various approaches to source selection 
that are available for use. As stated in the handbook, best value is 
the preferred method of source selection and should be used to the 
maximum extent possible. While other supply centers have issued policy 
guidance to implement the FAR as well as DOD directives, a DLA official 
said that DSCP is the only DLA center that has developed a handbook on 
best value contracting.

Second, like all the Directorates at DSCP, the Directorate of Clothing 
and Textiles has its own contract support team. Headed by a supervisory 
procurement analyst, the team consists of five procurement analysts, a 
contract price/cost analyst, an industrial specialist, and a 
procurement technician. The team supports the Directorate by providing 
contracting guidance and direction, developing procurement policies and 
procedures, and developing and administering procurement training. For 
example, a training program for contracting personnel emphasizes the 
need to thoroughly document all factors considered in making the final 
award. The team also encourages the Directorate to use past performance 
as an evaluation factor for all purchases over $100,000.[Footnote 10]

Further, DLA’s procurement management review program is designed to 
provide local, periodic, and specific subject/area reviews of the 
agency’s contracting offices by an independent and objective team of 
contracting professionals from the headquarters and field contracting 
staff. In April 2002, a DLA team reviewed DSCP’s Directorate of 
Clothing and Textiles procurements. The DLA team found the Directorate 
had substantially improved its documentation of tradeoff decisions 
related to best value source selection in the contract files. The best 
value tradeoff decisions documented in the files were characterized by 
the DLA team as among the best that the team had seen in the entire 
agency.

DLA Views Clothing and Textile Supplier Base as Uncertain:

DLA officials view the future of the clothing and textile supplier base 
as uncertain. They noted that the Berry Amendment, which requires DOD 
to purchase certain items such as food, clothing, and textiles from 
domestic sources, helps maintain a domestic supplier base to meet some 
of DOD’s unique military requirements. They also stated that 
competition for DOD’s clothing and textile contracts has never been 
stronger, as clothing and textile companies that have traditionally not 
done business with DOD are now competing for DLA contracts. In fact, 
they informed us that some U.S. companies produce items only for DOD. 
However, they stated that this increase in competition among domestic 
suppliers is the “last gasp of a dying industry.” An increasing number 
of domestic suppliers are competing for DSCP’s clothing and textile 
contracts for a variety of reasons as the industry copes with a decline 
in employment and production, consolidations and bankruptcies, 
increased imports, and domestic suppliers moving overseas. If an item 
cannot be acquired from a domestic supplier, DLA can obtain a waiver 
from the Berry Amendment, allowing it to purchase the item from a 
foreign supplier.[Footnote 11] To better understand the future of the 
clothing and textile supplier base and to identify potential solutions 
to keep the industry viable, DSCP has initiated an industrial base 
study on the health of the clothing and textile industry.

Over the past few years, various free trade agreements have been 
implemented that have affected the clothing and textile supplier base. 
DSCP officials said that a further complication to the outlook for the 
clothing and textile supplier base is a World Trade Organization 
agreement that will eliminate quotas for many imported clothing and 
textile items by January 1, 2005.[Footnote 12] According to DSCP 
officials, the implementation of free trade agreements and the removal 
of the quotas may threaten second-and third-tier suppliers. For 
example, they stated that one U.S. company supplies wool fabrics to 
many domestic companies, including contractors that make coats for the 
military services. However, other U.S. companies are purchasing 
inexpensive wool fabrics imported from foreign countries, thus 
competing with the U.S. supplier. Because this U.S. supplier is losing 
business to foreign competitors, it may not have enough business to 
keep its factories operating. According to DSCP officials, if the 
supplier cannot keep its factories operating, it may eventually go out 
of business and those contractors that make coats for the military 
services will not have the company as a domestic supplier of wool.

In response to the World Trade Organization agreement, DSCP has 
initiated an industrial base study of the domestic clothing and textile 
industry to determine what will happen when quotas are removed at the 
beginning of 2005. The study’s preliminary findings support DSCP’s 
concern about the overall health of the U.S. supplier base for clothing 
and textile products. For example, DSCP has found that an increasing 
number of DSCP contractors are totally dependent on government work. 

Further, DSCP found that about 300 U.S. textile mills, which performed 
weaving and finishing and supplied yarn, closed from 1995 to 2001. DSCP 
is exploring whether the Berry Amendment will be sufficient to protect 
the domestic industrial base or whether there are other possible 
solutions to keep the industry viable and support readiness.

In those situations that involve critical military clothing and textile 
items, DSCP officials said that DLA, in the future, could strengthen 
the supplier base by increasingly providing contracts to a number of 
suppliers for national defense purposes to achieve industrial 
mobilization. For example, in fiscal year 2002, two industrial 
mobilization contracts were awarded at a cumulative value of $2.7 
million for cold-weather underclothing.

DLA provides input to DOD’s Annual Industrial Capabilities Report, 
which is to be submitted to the Congress by March 1 of each year. 

Section 2504 of title 10, U.S. Code, requires the report to include, 
among other things, a description of the methods and analyses being 
undertaken by DOD to identify and address concerns regarding 
technological and industrial capabilities of the national technology 
and industrial base. DLA’s input generally focuses on specific items 
that are being procured. However, a DLA official told us that it would 
be possible to include a discussion of the clothing and textile 
industrial base if the situation warranted. Ultimately, the official 
said that it is up to DOD as to whether such information will be 
presented in the final report submitted to the Congress.

Recommendation for Executive Action:

We recommend that the Secretary of Defense require the DLA Director to 
monitor the health of the clothing and textile industrial base and, if 
warranted, keep the Congress informed of the implications for future 
defense clothing and textile procurements. One means of informing the 
Congress may be DOD’s Annual Industrial Capabilities Report, which is 
submitted annually to the Congress.

Agency Comments and Our Evaluation:

DOD provided written comments on a draft of this report. DOD generally 
agreed with the draft report and concurred with the recommendation. DOD 
stated that DLA will include the health of the clothing and textile 
industrial base as a topic in the next DOD Annual Industrial 
Capabilities Report, which is due March 1, 2004. DOD’s comments appear 
in appendix III.

We are sending copies of this report to interested congressional 
committees, the Secretary of Defense, and the Director, DLA. We also 
will make copies available to others upon request. In addition, the 
report will be available at no charge on the GAO Web site at http://
www.gao.gov.

Please contact me at (202) 512-4841 if you have questions regarding 
this letter. An additional contact and staff acknowledgements are 
listed in appendix IV.

David E. Cooper, Director
Acquisition and Sourcing Management:

Signed by David E. Cooper:

[End of section]

Appendix I: Scope and Methodology:

To determine whether the Defense Logistics Agency’s (DLA) Defense 
Supply Center Philadelphia (DSCP) Directorate of Clothing and Textiles 
complied with selected statutory and regulatory guidance for best value 
contracting, including the use of past performance as an evaluation 
factor, we took a random sample of 15 of the 142 competed clothing and 
textile procurements in fiscal year 2001, each exceeding $100,000. Our 
sample size was based upon the assumption that the incidence of 
problems in source selection competition procedures would be 10 percent 
or less. This assumption gives a 95 percent confidence interval for the 
sample estimate that is accurate to within plus or minus 15 percent. 

The assumption of a low incidence of problems was accepted because DLA 
had just conducted a management review of DSCP prior to the start of 
fiscal year 2001 and found few problems.

Of the 15 procurements selected for our sample, 12 involved a tradeoff 
source selection process comparing price and other factors using 
criteria found in the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR) Part 15, 
Contracting by Negotiation or FAR Part 13, Simplified Acquisition 
Procedures--Test Program for Certain Commercial Items, for purchases of 
commercial items exceeding the simplified acquisition threshold but not 
exceeding $5 million. In addition, 3 were awarded based on a lowest 
price/technically acceptable source selection process using criteria 
found in (1) FAR Part 12, Acquisition of Commercial Items, (2) FAR Part 
13, Simplified Acquisition Procedures--Test Program for Certain 
Commercial Items, or (3) FAR Part 15.

To assess whether DLA properly implemented statutory and regulatory 
guidance for best value purchases, we reviewed FAR Part 7, Acquisition 
Planning; FAR Part 12; FAR Part 13; FAR Part 15; and the Defense 
Logistics Acquisition Directive. We identified and applied major 
provisions of the FAR and the DLA acquisition directive pertaining to 
acquisition planning, solicitation content, proposal evaluation, and 
source selection decision documentation, with a focus on past 
performance. Finally, we reviewed DSCP’s 1996 Guiding Principles for 
Best Value Source Selection, known as the “Best Value Handbook.” 

To obtain DLA’s views on the domestic supplier base for clothing and 
textiles, we contacted DLA officials from DSCP. We also spoke with 
officials from the American Apparel and Footwear Association to obtain 
a general understanding of the industry. We did not independently 
verify the information the officials provided to us. During our review, 
DSCP was conducting a clothing and textile study of the industrial base 
and officials provided us with documentation dealing with the supplier 
base. This study has not yet been completed. In addition, we gathered 
information on DOD’s Annual Industrial Capabilities Report submitted to 
the Congress by March 1 of each year.

We performed our work from August 2002 to January 2003 in accordance 
with generally accepted government auditing standards.

[End of section]

Appendix II: Sample of Clothing and Textile Procurements:

The table below lists the procurements included in our sample. Dollar 
amounts shown for the improved physical fitness uniform pants and sound 
protector procurements represent actual obligations placed against the 
contracts in fiscal year 2001. Dollar amounts shown for the remaining 
procurements represent estimated contract values, including the basic 
contract period and all option periods.

Table 1: Procurements in Our Sample:

Contract: SP010001D4014; 
Contractor: Armorworks, LLC; 
Product: Body armor; 
Dollar: $35,907,825.

Contract: SP010001D4017; 
Contractor: Harris Mfg. Co., Inc.; 
Product: Coveralls; 
Dollar: $20,000,000.

Contract: SP010001D4002; 
Contractor: Mine Safety Appliances Company; 
Product: Goggles; 
Dollar: $10,000,000.

Contract: SP010001D0317; 
Contractor: Propper International, Inc.; 
Product: Shirts; 
Dollar: $9,500,000.

Contract: SP010001D4020; 
Contractor: AOTEC, LLC; 
Product: Spectacles; 
Dollar: $6,500,000.

Contract: SP010001D0306; 
Contractor: J H Rutter-Rex Mfg. Co., Inc.; 
Product: Trousers; 
Dollar: $6,300,000.

Contract: SP010001DCB17; 
Contractor: Olympic Mills; 
Product: Undershirts; 
Dollar: $4,100,000.

Contract: SP010001D0328; 
Contractor: Ashland Sales and Service Co.; 
Product: Trousers; 
Dollar: $3,000,000.

Contract: SP010001MCA17
Contractor: American Apparel Inc.
Product: Improved physical fitness uniform pants; 
Dollar: $2,967,498

Contract: SP010001D0305; 
Contractor: M & B Headwear Company Inc.; 
Product: Sun hat; 
Dollar: $2,500,000.

Contract: SP010001D4022; 
Contractor: Action Embroidery Corp.; 
Product: Insignia; 
Dollar: $2,300,000.

Contract: SP010001D5063; 
Contractor: Propper International, Inc.; 
Product: Coveralls; 
Dollar: $2,000,000.

Contract: SP010001C5009; 
Contractor: Silencio Safety Direct, Inc.; 
Product: Sound protectors; 
Dollar: $685,800.

Contract: SP010001D4029; 
Contractor: Precision Polymer Mfg.; 
Product: Clipboards; 
Dollar: $500,000.

Contract: SP010001D5017; 
Contractor: Jacqueline Embroidery Company; 
Product: Insignia; 
Dollar: $250,000.

[End of table]

Source: DLA Management Information System.

[End of section]

Appendix III: Comments from the Department of Defense:

Deputy Under Secretary Of Defense For Logistics And Materiel Readiness:  
3500 Defense Pentagon: 
Washington, DC 20301-3500:

February 25 2003:

Mr. David E. Cooper:
Director, Acquisition and Sourcing Management: 
U.S. General Accounting Office:
441 G Street, NW: 
Washington, D.C. 20548:

Dear Mr. Cooper:

This is the Department of Defense (DoD) response to the General 
Accounting Office (GAO) draft report, “Contract Management: DLA 
Properly Implemented Best Value Contracting for Clothing and Textiles 
and Views the Supplier Base As Uncertain,” dated February 7, 2003 (GAO 
Code 120176/GAO-03-440).

The DoD generally agrees with the draft report. A detailed response to 
the GAO recommendation is included in the enclosure. The DoD 
appreciates the opportunity to comment on the draft report.

Sincerely,

Allen W. Becke Principal Assistant:

Signed by Allen W. Becke:

Enclosure:

GAO Draft Report - Dated February 7, 2003 GAO Code 120176/GAO-03-440:

“Contract Management: DLA Properly Implemented Best Value Contracting 
For Clothing and Textiles and Views the Supplier Base As Uncertain”:

Department Of Defense Comments To The Recommendation:

Recommendation: The GAO recommended that the Secretary of Defense 
require the DLA Director to monitor the health of the clothing and 
textile industrial base and, if warranted, keep Congress informed of 
the implications for future defense procurements. One means of 
informing Congress may be DoD’s Annual Industrial Capabilities Report 
that is submitted annually to Congress. (p. 10/GAO Draft Report):

DOD Response: The DoD concurs with the recommendation. The Defense 
Logistics Agency will include the health of the clothing and textile 
industrial base as a topic in the next DoD Annual Industrial 
Capabilities Report, which is due March l, 2004.

[End of section]

Appendix IV: GAO Contact and Staff Acknowledgments:

GAO Contact:

Michele Mackin (202) 512-4309:

Acknowledgments:

In addition to the name above, Robert L. Ackley, Marie P. Ahearn, Carl 
S. Barden, Charles D. Groves, John D. Heere, and William E. Petrick, 
Jr. made key contributions to this report.

Footnotes: 

[1] H.R. Report 107-436 on H.R. 4546, Bob Stump National Defense 
Authorization Act for Fiscal Year 2003.

[2] 10 U.S.C. 2533a, as implemented by Defense Federal Acquisition 
Regulation Supplement, Subpart 225.7002.

[3] Past performance information is relevant information regarding a 
contractor’s actions under previously awarded contracts. It includes, 
for example, the contractor’s record of conforming to contract 
requirements and commitment to customer satisfaction. (FAR 42.1501.)

[4] FAR 15.304(3).

[5] The FAR references the statutory requirements it implements and 
those statutory citations will not be repeated here.

[6] While the FAR does not specifically require written acquisition 
plans, it does direct agencies to prescribe procedures specifying cases 
in which a written plan shall be prepared (FAR 7.103(d)). Defense 
Logistics Acquisition Directive 7.102 requires written acquisition 
plans for all proposed contract actions expected to exceed the 
simplified acquisition threshold, which is $100,000. 

[7] These two procurements were conducted under the test program, which 
was authorized by FAR Subpart 13.5 and which allows contracting 
officers discretion in procuring commercial items exceeding the 
simplified acquisition threshold but not exceeding $5 million.

[8] One procurement, conducted as a tradeoff analysis under the test 
program, was not subject to all of the criteria we cite in the 
following sections.

[9] The FAR requires that such offerors may not be evaluated favorably 
or unfavorably on past performance and that the solicitation describe 
the approach for evaluating past performance (FAR 15.305(a)(2)).

[10] Currently, the group responsible for awarding contracts for 
military insignia procurements uses the higher threshold of $500,000 
for best value contracting.

[11] During fiscal years 2001 and 2002, DSCP’s Directorate of Clothing 
and Textiles obtained 12 Berry Amendment waivers. 

[12] The Uruguay Round Agreement on Textiles and Clothing, approved by 
Congress as part of the Uruguay Round Agreements Act, 19 U.S.C. 
3511(a)(1), provides for the integration of the clothing and textile 
sectors into the general rules of the General Agreement of Tariffs and 
Trade 1994.

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